Founded in 2015, CellarDoor embodies Made in Italy artisanal excellence. Its new collection features signature nods to the relaxed shapes of the brand’s staple trouser silhouettes. Exemplifying the ethos of ‘do one thing and do it well’, SS23 sees CellarDoor ramping up their exceptional design detailing, paying special attention to the construction of each piece.
The key tones of the collection are white, blue, yellow and brick, alongside the brand’s ever-so-distinctive military green. With an upcoming collaboration with United Arrows on the way, we spoke to brand owner and designer Filippo Bettanin about its elevated construction process, silhouettes within the new collection, what the future holds for the brand, and more.
What was the initial concept behind the CellarDoor?
To make sartorial trousers modern. We try to give a voice to the garments through the materials and processes we have inherited over the years from our artisans. We create collections to improve objects and improve ourselves.
Can you tell us more about how the interior of each pant is elevated?
CellarDoor has always promised quality and comfort, so almost all the items are built with systems that allow the garments to adapt to people’s lives. This season also brings a big change – for the first time, we are building part of the collection with 100% sartorial concepts, from the inner belt with flounces, to 100% organic cotton linings. The goal is to rediscover the garments with all our senses via visually beautiful garments that make you feel good.
Please tell us more about your collab with United Arrows, what was the concept behind it?
United Arrows has always supported us since the first season. We decided to make this collaboration to confirm the bond that has lasted for years, creating pants accessible to all. Using materials and accessories taken from our sustainable supply chain, we have created genderless trousers without size, which can be worn by both a slim and robust build. They were inspired by field pyjamas from the 40s that were used by patients in field hospitals.
With ‘comfort’ a key focus of the brand, how do you ensure your pieces exude it?
It’s all in our DNA and our way of life. People are in constant motion, with the desire to travel, to live, to be well. So, fortunately, we do not find it difficult. We often use raw materials of the past, rather than modern ones to maintain the essence of the garment. We want the garment to convey a kind of ‘spiritual’ comfort, making it unique and indisputably beautiful. A special piece that can be transferred from hand to hand in future years.
Please talk us through the main influences behind this collection – were there any that were non-fashion related?
In our work, I think we are surrounded by influences constantly. Starting from the people who surround us every day, up to the colours that the earth gives us. Our influence from the technical point of view is workwear and militaristic. They are not clothes made to cover but are objects made to meet needs. This gives me peace of mind and has led me to think that a garment must have very specific purposes.
We live in 2022, a year of excess and abundance. I think it is our responsibility to know that we are creating objects that no one really needs, so it is essential to at least try to make them useful, unique and different. The whole system influences our creativity, even in small things or in the production process. We always try to bring respect to ourselves and to what surrounds us, to create collections from a sustainable point of view, for ourselves, and for the environment.
What are the key pieces that you are most excited about from this collection and why?
One of the garments that give me satisfaction is the model in collaboration with United Arrows. From an insignificant garment, we managed to bring out the essence of CellarDoor. Another garment that I cannot wait to show is sartorial trousers that we have made by a Japanese model maker, merging our European and Japanese physicality through a new, more contemporary silhouette.
Can you talk us through the key cuts and silhouettes that define the collection?
The silhouettes are different within the collection, but the garments predominately feature fairly wide bottoms – for me, a symbol of comfort and tranquillity.
What key element would you like people to take from this collection?
First of all the colour – white, is the foundation of CellarDoor. So many people have difficulty with this colour, but I think it’s one of the most beautiful colours that exist – white makes me calm. Then I would like to convey to people a new way of dressing. Pants are always put in the background, but in recent years I have had the opportunity to collaborate with many people. I can confirm the fact that wearing beautiful trousers makes a difference in people’s looks.
What's next for the brand?
I haven’t really thought about long-term goals today. The last few years have been very busy. What we definitely want is to make the project known to as many people as possible. Bringing people back to the sensibility of the garment and understanding that even buying an item of clothing today, entails great responsibility.
What are you looking forward to at PITTI?
We decided to participate in Pitti because today we still consider it to be the fair in the men’s fashion sector with the most personality. We know that the organisers are very competent people and we trust them. I think what we can expect from Pitti is that it will make us live fantastic days immersed in the fashion and events they will organise. The rest is up to us.