Sustainability at Pitti:
Reamerei
Editorial
Edition 100
06.07.2021
Reamerei’s Upcycled Denim Is a Whole Philosophy

Sustainability at Pitti is a series of interviews that celebrate fashion’s climate-conscious innovators. By providing a platform for the designers that put sustainability at the core of their brand, we hope to inspire and lead a wave of change within our industry, helping us all to push for a better future together.

For a brand that talks extensively about technology and the future, there’s something nostalgic about Reamerei’s collections. That “something” is perhaps best described as Renaissance meets grunge — for here, exaggerated and almost ornate silhouettes are contrasted with upcycled, harder fabrics and an attitude that speaks more of disrupting and questioning the status quo rather than sucking up to the establishment.
The Milan-based brand was founded in 2019 by Marzia Geusa and creative directors Enrico Micheletto and Davide Melis, all of whom make clear that a mission to dissect societal norms, particularly in regards to gender, lies at the heart of Reamerei. Its non-binary collections are “fighting an ironic war against sexual dimorphism” (the condition in which two sexes of the same species exhibit different characteristics beyond the differences in sexual organs) — SS22’s  “L’Aria Del Sabato Sera” or  “The Saturday Night Air” in English, takes that concept and celebrates it, upcycling denim pieces and reworking the shapes to evoke atmospheres of romance, desire, and letting yourself go. 
 
“The shapes and colors [also] tell of a fusion between anthropomorphic creatures and plant organisms,” they explain in a statement, “continuing the reflection on the technology-nature binomial and fantasizing about an alternative reality, based on harmony and not on the dual and toxic conflict.” The use of denim and cotton “suggests an urban, essential spirit — oversized volumes and curls claim an authoritative femininity in an unpredictable spirit. The velvet embodies the passionate side of the collection, wrapping the body and altering it, while the knitwear in pure virgin wool envelops with softness.” 

The brand’s use of upcycled denim speaks to their efforts to make responsible collections from a climate perspective, too. On the topic of creating clothing that’s conscious about contributing to the vast amount of waste created by the fashion industry, they say, “this awareness is increasingly alive in us and we, therefore, believe that it is important to give a new intended use to pre-existing materials.” 

We recently linked up with Reamerei to find out more about its design approach and the collection it will show at Pitti this year— that conversation you can find below. 
Tell us about your latest collection. What is the story behind it? What influenced it? 

We have chosen to use a humble and versatile material — denim, giving it unexpected shapes that give it a certain sensuality. 

There’s a contrasting relationship in “L’aria Del Sabato Sera” between fluid, romantic cuts, and the use of a harder fabric like denim, is there a message here? 

Yes, it concerns the various ways, often actually conflicting, that can coexist in each of us.
In what way(s) does your work explore the relationship between technology and nature?

The most genuinely creative approach to our work starts with a questioning look towards the future, and the desire to give it our own imaginative interpretation. What will we be like? How will we dress? 

You use terms like heterotopic and sexual dimorphism to describe your brand mentality. How does your collection explore and question (or reject) the traditional understandings of gender roles and sexuality? 

By “heterotopic” we refer to a sort of place connected to other places, but which at the same time reverses their dynamics. Each of us often takes refuge in a completely unique and indescribable personal world. Belonging to the non-binary community, we simply think about what we and our friends would like to wear.
 
What does “slow fashion” mean for you? How does the term inform your brand? 

The collections have small quantities per item, which are produced and delivered with adequate timing in respect of everyone’s work.

You say “a large part” of your collections are made from upcycled materials. How much of your collection is made from new materials? How are these textiles sourced? 

In the collection presented at Pitti, we thought of a line with a single material, denim, purchased directly from a supplier in Milan.
You say your garments are 100% Made in Italy. Does this speak for every element incorporated in your collections or are you referring solely to the sourcing and construction? 

Today all our garments are 100% made in Italy and we try to continue to keep our entire supply chain here. 

What are the biggest obstacles you face as a designer in regards to creating responsible collections?

Trying to eliminate the waste of the material and keep a slow process. 

 
How do you feel about the industry’s current sustainability efforts? What change would you like to see? 

In Italy, we would like to see more attention towards emerging generations of creatives. 
Do you have any top tips or words of advice for brands and designers looking to be more responsible in their work? 

We don’t feel like giving any advice to others but we advise ourselves to express ourselves by paying attention to what is happening around us.



 
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