Pitti Connect, Icon’s menswear wardrobe for next winter
Editorial
Edition 99
08.04.2021
Normcore is the new normal.  It is the keyword for the wardrobe of the next cold season. Where formal is not very formalized and loungewear becomes as sophisticated as a tailored suit. A fluid wardrobe that embarks upon an increasingly decisive unisex path. In short, unconfined freedom of expression and a marked reconnection with nature. The colors are warm, autumnal. The color palette is wood, the blurred foliage of leaves, shades of spices such as cardamom or pumpkin orange on technical nylons, ecological wools and natural cottons. The fits are wide and fluid, the silhouettes soft. The trousers assume almost flared shapes. They are stretchy to emphasize comfort and to downplay cargo and double pleated pants.  Overall the style is essential and combines formulas refined over the years to create looks that last beyond the seasons. Jackets are unhemmed with ample lines and impalpable weights. The choice of fabrics falls on leathers and flannels, stretch velvets and sheepskins combined with iridescent memory technical fabrics. Plus, membraned boiled wool and special microfibers that characterize multi-seasonal clothes. For outdoor garments, green light for experimentation and eco-environmental revolutions both in terms of production processes and product. The nylons decompose after a few years, the padding is obtained from regenerated feathers made from disused duvets and the wools come from animal friendly certified companies.

Annalisa Testa and Silvia Perego
Icon

 
1_Yes Zee
With the FW21 collection Yes Zee confirms and consolidates its ability to make outdoor materials more elegant by creating the perfect synthesis between comfort and style. Tangible proof of this is the eco-friendly down jacket with coupled iridescent fabric and waterproof membranes.
2_Xacus
Xacus does not forget tradition but modernizes it and presents Xacus Legacy: an ongoing capsule collection that will take a new look at archive garments, reinterpreting them and bringing them up to date. Here we find boxing fit shirts that take a nod at the Fifties made with light flannels obtained from pre-consumer recycled cotton.
3_Ten C
The watchword for Ten C is OJJ i.e., Original Japanese Jersey, the brand’s distinctive fabric made from high-density knitted nylon and polyester fibers which is both wind-resistant and water-repellent. Used not only in iconic outerwear like parkas, anoraks and down jackets, but also in stretch polyamide wool essential jerseys.
 
4_Paul&Shark
Paul&Shark draws inspiration from the north seas for the winter collection. From fisherman sweaters to soft recycled wool pullovers that guarantee warmth and breathability, to ultra-light wool peacoats and the legendary Typhoone 20.000 Norwegian which represents the brand’s expertise in the field of technology applied to outerwear.
5_Gabriele Pasini
Modena, this is the fourth chapter of the "Italian" itinerary undertaken by Gabriele Pasini for next season. A chromatic path through the art and architecture of the Emilian city interpreted by mixing fabrics, colors and patterns that reflect the concept of Italian elegance.  From tailoring to streetwear, the brand’s whole soul in one collection.
6_Paoloni
Paoloni celebrates the new "casualization" of the menswear style that also becomes a top priority for formalwear. Thus, even more comfortable clothing proposals emerge. The jackets become softer and more like “overcoats” using stretch fabrics, wool and cashmere jersey and fleece. Even the pants increase in volume with pleats and drawstrings.
7_Baracuta
Baracuta’s FW21 collection is inspired by the places where it has its origins: England and the United States. The new features include the Baracuta Paul Coat, a wide-fit coat in Moone wool; the new line dedicated to corduroy: the G9 AF Classic Corduroy, the Cord Overshirt, the Corduroy Baseball Hat.
8_Brunello Cucinelli
For the coming winter Brunello Cucinelli focuses on the study of the classics and the elements that have elevated themselves above trends. Denim is, therefore, a must, preferably in dark blue to be worn in a total look with a trouser and shirt suit, paired with mélange gray wool padded outerwear.
 
9_Gimo’s Italiana
Gimo’s fall-winter collection is designed for those who refuse to forgo the elegance of fine materials yet are also looking for a sporty allure. Leather, flannels, velvets and sheepskin are accompanied by technical fabrics and padding to ensure insulation from the cold.  The emblem of this dual soul: the classic military green parka with minimal silhouette and fur lining.
10_Herno Laminar
“It is in the reflection of water that we find uniqueness”.  This phrase describes the new Herno Laminar collection because the story of this brand that has become synonymous with urban outerwear begins right from the first raincoats of the immediate post-war period.  Today down jackets play on lengths and volumes and are made with increasingly high-performance, waterproof and technical fabrics.
11_Briglia1949
In the Briglia1949 “Racconta La Sartoria” collection, the brand encompasses traditionally tailored and classic models which are reinterpreted and downplayed by constructions of elasticated belts or accompanied by internal drawstrings. Formal trousers with a wide fit in warm-colored cashmere or in light fabrics such as tweeds and silk touch velvets.
12_Hevò
Each Hevò garment is designed in Martina Franca, in Puglia, where the brand pays tribute to the company’s long history but also looks carefully towards the future. This is how sartorial yet current and comfortable items are born, with timeless silhouettes made using state-of-the-art fabrics and treatments in a color palette that transcends the seasons.
13_Lardini By Yosuke Aizawa
This is the third season that Lardini has collaborated with the designer Yosuke Aizawa, bringing forward the concept of synergy between tradition and innovation. Field jackets, blousons, Chester coats and padded packable jackets complete the outerwear proposal made using multilayer nylon and comfortable jersey that overlap in tone-on-tone color combinations.
14_Manuel Ritz
The protagonist of the new Manuel Ritz collection is the research into the processing that presses the accelerator on piece-dyeing. The overcoats are made of dyed wool with a strict color palette ranging from burnt brown to brick, from military green to navy.  There is no shortage of textures like Prince of Wales check, flannel and hound’s tooth that heavily reference tradition.