S|Style
Sustainable Style #6
 
Editorial
Edition 103
12.01.2023
10 experimental collections bring innovative and responsible menswear practices and principles to Pitti Uomo. The focus of this 6th edition will pay attention to textile experimentation and the circularity of the collections.
A new edition of S|Style sustainable style returns for Pitti Uomo 103 (Florence, Fortezza da Basso, 10-13 January 2023).  This is the exhibition project presented by the Fondazione Pitti Discovery which, since its debut, has attracted the attention of the press and top international buyers.  In the Fortezza, in a special area in the Arsenale Pavilion (First Floor), Pitti will be presenting a new selection of 10 brands, the result of a scouting activity with a strong international and inclusive approach.  The sustainability “practices” chosen by each brand and designer are multiple: from popular upcycling, or rather the technique of reworking an already existing item of clothing, to the use of fabrics certified in accordance with international standards; from the activities of giving back in favor of the planet, with the support of environmental associations and organizations, to the use of recycled materials and ethical work practices capable of making the most of craftsmanship. The scouting activities of the designer, who is the curator and deviser of the project, journalist and stylist Giorgia Cantarini, is the result of scrupulous investigations carried out through international fashion weeks, awards, the most prestigious fashion universities and even Instagram.
The common thread of this edition is "back to the future", taking a step backwards in order to move forwards.
in the true modus operandi of these brands, to rediscover, hunt out unwanted fabrics and yarns in order to make them desirable again in a circular perspective. A return also to the manufacturing traditions of the past, the sewing techniques of our grandmothers or to geographical-cultural origins, right up to sartorial hybrids.  
Projected into the future with textile innovations at the service of the environment. 

— Giorgia Cantarini, Curator of S|Style

On 11 January from 3.00 to 4.00 p.m. there will be a presentation dedicated to press and buyers so that they can discover the collections, including editorial coverage by Acielle @styledumonde.  
This presentation has been made possible thanks to the support of Cuoio di Toscana.

 
The Shooting
The names of the top 10 leading brands are:  
 
Dhruv Kapoor
Emblem of the artisanal sartorial-sporty style, the brand is committed to circularity with 40% of the collection created using leftover fabrics from national producers.  It works with the Hothur Foundation to create employment opportunities for the survivors of acid attacks and on collaborative projects with a network of villages across India to uplift and sustain artisans that are skilled in handiwork.  It will be showcased on the catwalk at Milan fashion week, featuring on the official calendar for the second time.
 
Isnurh
The high-end Danish brand that blends the elements of Scandinavian minimalism with craftsmanship through high quality certified fabrics, collaborations with artists and ethical production.  Prints without the use of water, biodegradable garments and a short production chain just 6k from Copenhagen.
 
Junk
From “waste” arises new eyewear, or rather Y2k sunglasses with silver details are forged from plastics collected in the oceans, in an ode to movement, which the brand defines as “motion sleekness”, moving elegance. The brand’s responsible production is realized in the Cadore district of Veneto.
 
Kemkes
Uses sheets, curtains and blankets which would otherwise be sent to the rubbish dump to create minimal deluxe streetwear with a modular approach: each garment can be transformed and worn for different types of occasions. The founder, Luca Kemkes, trained with the style team at Calvin Klein.
 
Margn
For the Indian brand Margn, being sustainable is a proclamation of the culture of humanism. The concept is connected to clothing through symbolic compositions, humanoid symbols, valves and tubes of recycled water that represent the interconnection between all of us.  A sartorial and knitwear language developed by artisanal workshops in an all-women community in the Northern Himalayas who are responsible for creating the label’s argyles and ikats.
 
Maxime
Sartorial comfort with certified fabrics featuring whip stitch appliqués on jersey and knitwear recalling the tapisserie or covers that can often be found in old country homes. The color palette follows the tones of earth, beige, dove-gray, medium and dark brown, and sage, while the highlights are provided by bright rusty tones or deep peacock blues.
Non confunditur
Vegan, cruelty-free, genderless and environmentally-compatible accessories.  This is the first company in the world to use vegetable leather obtained from cereals.  Taking care of the planet with style is the motto of this Made in Florence craft brand.  Totally genderless bags, small leather goods, backpacks and belt bags.
Piume Studio
100% responsible production with a controlled supply chain.  Vegan raw materials, Made in Venice footwear production. The must-have items are the Pillow Boots, boots made with mindful artisan processes carried out in expert workshops using exclusive high range Japanese vegan fabrics.
 
Permu
The name of the brand is an abbreviation of “permutation” and is the idea of two Chinese designers who believe that the replacement and fusion of various fashion styles can give new life to the fashion industry. Working with technology to combat waste, their creative approach to men’s clothing left its mark in 2022, when they appeared on the catwalk for the first time during LFW.
Waste Yarn Project
A knitwear brand headed by Siri Johansen (whose past includes time spent at Burberry, Pringle of Scotland and Kenzo), who understood it was possible to upcycle leftover scraps of wool through a poetic vision of knitwear. The shape of each piece is designed with care, with every garment featuring a combination of weft and warp that is completely random, in accordance with the availability of the salvaged yarns. 
 
About S|Style:
 
The S|Style - sustainable style project, now in its fifth edition, was born in 2020 in the midst of the pandemic to fill a cultural, social and market need to discuss, discover and present a new approach to conceiving collections and seasonality: respecting the environment and looking to the future.  On the one hand, with this project, Pitti Uomo aims to completely subvert the concept according to which responsible fashion means fashion without style, and on the other hand it offers buyers and fashion professionals the possibility of scouting clothing and accessories with low-impact production requirements, with certified, salvaged, recycled and experimental hybrid fabrics.  The selection of the participating brands is based on criteria of social and environmental responsibility which are the basis of the DNA of each of the participating brands, but the focus remains creativity and design.  Scouting is international and is the result of scrupulous investigations carried out through international fashion weeks, fashion awards, the most prestigious fashion universities and even Instagram.  Since the first edition, Sustainable Style has been a hub hosting talents of the caliber of Connor McKnight, Y/Project with the launch of its collection “Evergreen”, Phipps (which has now activated a collab with Boss), Federico Cina, the winner of “Who’s on Next”, Uniforme, “Andam prize” finalist, and Vitelli which now collaborates with the US label Collina Strada: all names that have become references with awards, achievements and prestigious collaborations.  Last but not least we should mention S.S.Daley who attended Pitti 99 with his first collection and today is the winner of the 2022 edition of the LVMH Prize.   Even the "language" of the project is cutting-edge and irreverent: it wants to communicate in a positive and non-coercive way, establishing a contemporary dialogue with the audience thanks to the use of social media and technology.
 
Featured S|Style brands on Pitti Connect: