Pitti Predicts by Samutaro: Statement style is the key to FW23/24 tailoring
Editorial
Edition 103
22.12.2022
Reports of the death of the suit is one of the oldest stories in menswear, and a subject that has frequented media headlines even more so in the wake of Covid. But while the market for daily commuter suits might be dwindling, the suit is far from dead. Instead, menswear commentators have been calling this new sartorial moment a golden era for avant garde suits that we wear to celebrate life.


 
The suits that some office workers have to wear out of obligation, the ‘acceptable body cover’ mass-market suit is clearly a declining category, and Covid has sped up that process. But that doesn’t mean people have lost the joy of looking sharp. In fact, for those that like to make statements and express themselves with clothes, this is something of a golden time for tailoring.

— social commentator and co-author of the Sloane Ranger Handbook, Peter York

You only have to look at the type of glamorous tailoring appearing on recent red carpets to get a feel for these statement style. Think Justin Bieber’s boxy Balenciaga suit from the Grammys, Timothée Chalamet going shirtless under a Louis Vuitton sequin-and-lace cropped tuxedo jacket, or the custom glass bead embellished BODE tails that Leslie Odom Jr. wore to this years MET Gala.
Of course Pitti Uomo will always be recognised for its stringent sartorial codes when it comes to tailoring, but the event is just as much a platform for experimentation too. Each season both brands and the stylish men that fill the Fortezza da Basso help to reimagine how mainstream audiences think about the suit. Whether injecting 70s flourishes, progressive styling cues, or unexpected use of colour and texture, the show always remains at the litmus test for tailoring.
F/W 23/24 proves no different with a roster of brands that showcase the very best in sartorial prowess with emerging names like Itoh from India, guest designer JAN-JAN VAN ESSCHE who will be presenting his gender fluid designs on the runway or more modern tailoring propositions in the Scandinavian Manifesto like Rue de Tokyo or Les Deux.

words by @samutaro
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