This changing of tides at the fair is mostly to do with trends. Where Pitti was once purely a temple for tailoring traditionalists, it now plays host to a far broader church of menswear, including casualwear, converting the legion of menswear enthusiasts along with it. But it also signals something that has been happening across menswear in general - that the market is both relaxing and sobering up.

Much of the interest around Americana can be traced back to the 2008-09 when the global recession manifested in a return-to-roots approach to dressing. In menswear, You had your would-be lumberjacks and workwear fiends in Filson, Engineered Garments, RRL, and even a smattering of Vvisvim and Kapital on real heads like Greg Dacyshyn. And then you had your prep stalwarts, who were singing the wonders of Brooks Brothers’ new extra slim fit offerings, Ralph Lauren’s Rugby label, and what Frank Muytjens was doing at J.Crew — which was somehow channeling all these archetypes into wearable, affordable gear. The Japanese have always had a penchant for Ivy League style and names like Poggy The Man or Mr Hirofumi Kurino throwing together looks better than anyone at Pitti season on season.

Workwear's influence on style had been bubbling in the vintage scene for some time, but it was Pitti’s fashion-forward crowd that certainly helped usher the trend into the greater menswear zeitgeist during the period. It was at this time that raw denim and heavy Goodyear-welted boots became the standard, as men sought to craft an overtly masculine 'lumbersexual' aesthetic and a general pursuit of a head-to-toe heritage look.

Across the Pitti show floors, brands like Nigel Cabourn, Monitaly and Levi’s Vintage Clothing have been longtime stalwarts of masculine Americana style with their faithful reproductions of vintage utility garb, while other regulars like Universal Works and Eat Dust have offered a more contemporary take on American uniforms. In 2016, Japanese label Visvim was invited as one of the first menswear brands to host a runway show at the fair, putting on a jubilant spectacle of vintage Americana mixed with iconographic touches from Japan. The brand’s designer, Hiroki Nakamura, even brought in antique Fords and a 1928 Indian Scout motorcycle from his collection. Since then big names like American contemporary artist-turned fashion designer Sterling Ruby has presented his own vision of modern Americana in the form of his signature hand painted denim workwear, while last June buzzy-American designer and protagonist of sustainable style, Spencer Phipps of Phipps made his debut on the show's digital platform.

Just as the fair has become more filled with labels of this ilk, the audience has too reflected this shift in style. Over the years items like beautifully faded Carhartt jackets, cosy plaid shirts and hunting gear, the type you might expect to see on a Junya Watanabe runway, have become just as popular as the suiting you’d typically expect to see around the Fort’s cobblestone squares. If you’ve been keeping up with Pitti Uomo’s seasonal street shots over the years you’ll probably recognise regulars like designer Nigel Cabourn and his team of savvy vintage enthusiasts in Vogue’s seasonal coverage, while other menswear alumni like Japanese designer Daiki Suzuki of Engineered Garments or Italian designer Angelo Gallamini school the world in how to wear workwear and casual tailoring with incredible verve. Even influential names like Virgil Abloh are known to turn up announced as he did for Sterling Ruby’s show in 2019, wearing a cool uniform of camo cargo pants and vintage Levi’s denim jacket.

During Pitti’s Winter edition in January 2020, two major trends emerged that proved the enduring appeal of Americana style. The first was a reflection of the nerd chic renaissance happening in menswear right now, think Tyler, The Creator or brands like Rowing Blazers or Noah, who are at the forefront of a trend championing a more youthful approach to the American trad aesthetic. Pitti’s grounds were full of handsome corduroy suits, cosy mohair cardigans, rowing sweaters and tweed blazers, showcasing how menswear is dipping its toe back into classic style tropes.

In addition to the prep school reunion, many of the men scattered about Florence’s streets came dressed-to-the-nines in a fresh approach to western style. The kind of style we’re talking about is less rodeo cowboy and more rodeo drive. GQ’s Fashion Director Luke Day has long been a proponent of a cowboy-inspired style – he wore a stetson hat everyday on the road in Florence mixed with sharp tailoring and perfectly faded denim. But it wasn’t just him - the trend had caught on in a wider sense too. There were plenty of other rodeo-ready members of the fashion contingent wearing South Western classics like lavish navajo coats, flannel shirts, western tipped puffa jackets and freshly pressed bootcut pants. With Stetsons towering above the usual sea of  Borsalinos, it's no wonder these gents became the focus for street style photographers that season.